Subaru

Sometimes a car arrives for a dyno tune, all our ECC pre-dyno checks are completed, and everything looks good. We put the car on the dyno, we run it up, and it makes good power. A couple of custom tweaks are performed on the dyno, the calibration is then further refinded on the street, a couple of cold starts, and the car is ready to go. That happens… RARELY !!!

If you have your car booked in for a tune with us or are contemplating a dyno tune anywhere for that matter, take note of the following guide we have put together to ensure you get the best results, for the least amount of time, money and heartache…

ENGINE OIL

Oil is the lifeblood of your pride and joy’s engine, and bad, old, or low oil can turn an exciting dyno tune into a teary, expensive mess very quickly. Whilst we always check your oil before tuning, please ensure you have nice new, fresh oil in your engine. Also, please ensure it is the correct oil for your engine and application. Modern late model engines, particularly Direct Injection and Variable Camshaft engines, have some very specific requirementes with oil, and getting this wrong can have expensive and catastrohpic consequences. We are happy to supply oil and / or service your vehicle pre-dyno if necessary. Not sure what oil to run for what is about to be done? Don’t be afraid to ask!

SPARK PLUGS

Nothing is more frustrating than poor running conditions, incomplete combustion, and ignition misfires and break down from a simple spark plug. Please inspect your spark plugs, and if necessary, replace before dyno tuning. If your vehicle is in having power modifications, please don’t be afraid to have a chat to us about the right plug for your application – correct spark plug application for modified cars is a science – with materials, gap, resistance, indexing, and heat ranges being far mroe complicated than it sounds. Don’t let something as small and cheap as an $11 spark plug cost you hundred or thousands in wasted $$$ and time. We are more than happy to advise you on the right plug for your application!

FUEL

Fuel is crucial – like very! Without it, our cars don’t run. We know this – however there are three important things to consider – Firstly, fuel does have a shelf life, and if this is a project build, and the fuel in your car has been in there for more than a couple of weeks, make sure you bring or throw in some fresh fuel. Secondly, make sure you are using the right fuel for your application. Performance vehicles require at MINIMUM 98 Octane unleaded. We use and suggest BP ULTIMATE. Ethanol blended fuels can be ok, but talk to us about them first if you are leaning towards or running with this option as they have different burn and tuning characteristics. E85 – amazing, but a whole different scenario once again! Finally, make sure your car has enough fuel! Full custom tuning sessions use a lot of fuel – A LOT! Make sure your car has a full tank of fuel before its scheduled dyno date. Every week, we have vehicles dropped off for tuning sessions with the fuel light on. You WILL be charged for our time if we have to stop tuning, run to the servo to get you fuel, then come back and re-fill and start again.

LEAKS

Boost leaks, oil leaks, coolant leaks, air leaks, magical fairy leaks – all must be addressed before tuning. I’m yet to fnid a leak that is a good thing before a tuning session.Any car that leaks any oils or coolants all over the dyno ell will be charged time for the clean up. Also, losing a belly full of oil or coolant when your car is at 7000rpm + is a great way to hurt an engine and have a really bad day. Bringing a car to the dyno for a tune with a leak is like having an open house aprty when your parents are away– seems like a good idea at the time, but is unwise, messy, expensive, and is going to end up in heartache and a serious talking too. Exhaust leaks receive a special mention here – any exhaust leak in your system will not only rob you of power, torque and optimal potential, but they dramatically affect air: fuel ratio readouts whilst tuning, meaning a perfectly accurate tune is not possible.

COOLANT

Coolant, for lack of a better word, keeps your car “cool”. Crazy concept I know! Dyno tuning is stressful to your vehicle, and whilst we have built a fancy pants controlled conditions dyno cell, which is more like a wind tunnel, to aid in keeping your car cool while she is there, there is no substitute for a functional cooling system. Make sure she has enough coolant (and the right type), no leaks, the system is bled up properly, and that all your fans etc are all functioning correctly. A car overheating can not be tuned, and is downright dangerous for the vehicle (and your wallet!)

RIDE HEIGHT

This only applies to a few, but please ensure your vehicle is not so ridiculously low that it will not make it up onto the dyno bed and catch on things underneath. If we cant get it on the dyno, we can’t tune it. We can raise it for you, or macguyver some contraptions up to get super low vehicles on, but this all takes time and time comes at a cost! Our chassis dyno will take low vehicles but is not a miracle machine. If it is too low, it may be forced to go onto the hub dyno instead – but in similar vein, if the car is so low it makes it difficult to even jack the vehicle up, this takes extra time which costs extra money.

ELECTRICAL ISSUES

Please ensure the vehicle is electrically sound. In a modern EFI vehicle, power and earth circuits make the whole shooting match work. Tracking down wiring gremlins on the dyno is both annoying, time consuming, and more importantly for you, expensive.

TRANSMISSIONS

Please ensure your transmission and drivetrain is going to be up to the task of dyno use. Fresh gearbox and differential oils are advised. Sufficient cooling for the transmission is key also. We are happy to advise of what fluids should be run etc for your application. A slipping clutch or a clutch pedal sticking to the floor is a an annoying way to end a dyno session quickly! If youre unsure, ask!

CHARGING AND POWER

Your vehicle will most likely be turned on and off numerous times whilst tuning, and exrtended key cycles with the ignition on while we are flashing in a new calibration is the norm. Please ensure your vehicles battery, alternator and charging system are up to the task. Whilst we have jumper batteries and fancy, high priced chargers and power suplpy units available specifically for the task, time is money, and money is the thing we are trying to save you!

TYRES

Bald tyres do not only spin on the street. Make sure tyres are suitable for a tuning session. Vehicles with tyres that have steel belts hanging out, or chunks missing will NOT go on a chassis dyno. An important note here is guard clearance – on a chassis dyno, vehicles will squat on the dyno under WOT ramps – make sure your tyres do not scrub on the inner guards. Final note – certain tyres are not chassis dyno suitable or friendly – slicks or semi-slicks, while great on the street, are not great for the dyno. Confused? Don’t worry – just ask us and we can explain dyno tyre theory in more detail. Side note – lock nut keys! If we cant take your wheels off to put the car on the hub dyno, we cant tune it on there! Make sure your special wheel nut socket or lock nut sockets is in the car!